Brooch

Composed of rhinestones and pastes, this 1930's brooch captures the stylistic features of Art Deco with its mix of both geometric and naturalistic shapes. American costume jewelry soared in popularity during the Great Depression due to its low cost. In this period designs for brooches were whimsical and romantic subjects such as flower baskets, bouquets, and sprays became popular motifs. The Asian influence of chinoiserie, which enjoyed a resurgence in the 1920s and 1930s, can be identified here in the strong use of red and stylized Bonzai-like trees. Chinese and Japanese aesthetics influenced everything from domestic interior design and personal accessories to cinemas. This brooch was in line with trends in fashion that included Kimono-style coats and garments with motifs and beadwork depicting Chinese landscapes. Although unmarked, this brooch’s unique arrangement of both floral and architectural motifs recalls the fanciful designs of both Trifari and Coro, two of the larger American costume jewelry manufacturers of the period.

Brooch; cut glass stones, stamped base metal; L x W x D: 2.5 × 4 × 0.5 cm (1 in. × 1 9/16 in. × 3/16 in.); Gift of Bartholomew Voorsanger; 2016-48-3