Sampler (England)

Young girls used samplers as learning tools, and as pattern records at a time when books were scarce or unavailable. This lovely sampler is similar to other English white-work samplers of the period, with pattern bands created by withdrawing threads from the weave in regular grid patterns. The open spaces are filled with needle-lace stitches to make dense patterns or lacy motifs, ranging from simple to quite complex. It currently has nine wide decorative bands, though its cut edges at the top and bottom suggest it may once have been longer.

The first two bands have fine grids with only a few threads withdrawn; repeating diamond patterns have been created using simple interlocking buttonhole stitches known as doves’ eyes. The remaining bands have more open grids that have been filled with floral, star, snowflake or heart-shaped motifs made with detached buttonhole stitch. The needle-lace motifs increase in complexity and size, eventually including the introduction of picots – needle-made knots to embellish the edges.

The sampler clearly demonstrates a learning process from simple to quite complex work, but the stitching is beautifully executed and displays a masterful hand.

Susan Davis is a medical scientist with a passionate interest in 17th century English embroidery, in particular samplers and stumpwork.

Sampler (England); linen embroidery on linen foundation; H x W: 50.2 x 14.3 cm (19 3/4 x 5 5/8 in.); Bequest of Gertrude M. Oppenheimer; 1981-28-43