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Object Timeline
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Cravat End (France)
This is a Cravat end. It is dated 1695–99 and we acquired it in 1962. Its medium is linen and its technique is needle lace, late 17th to early 19 c. It is a part of the Textiles department.
Lace in Concert
The cravat is an early version of a man’s necktie. It could be a plain piece of white linen tied around the neck, with the free ends falling below the throat. A gentleman’s cravat would have been decorated with fine lace, as lace was especially fashionable for men in the 17th century. During this period, the greatest lace makers were working in Italy and Belgium. France, however, wished to create a competing industry that would stop the costly imports of lace. This effort led to the recruitment of skilled lace makers who were set up in French towns such as Alençon and Argentan. A new French style of lace gradually emerged through the influence of royally-appointed artists and designers such as Charles LeBrun (1619-1690) and Jean Bérain the elder (1637–1711). The lighter designs for needle lace with classical elements that resulted are sometimes referred to as Point de France. The emergence of early Rococo design is seen in the curvilinear motifs of canopies and arabesques favored by Bérain.
In this particular cravat, the human figures, architectural details, and decorative motifs are isolated from each other so the abundance of detail won’t overwhelm the overall design. The design depicts musical entertainment and features, at the center, a woman under a canopy playing the organetto, a popular musical instrument typically played by women. Accompanying her are male and female singers holding songbooks, a male clarinet player, a male cello player, and a man playing a violin. A butler extends a cup on a tray while a shirtless figure in a skirt and headdress on one knee offers a basket. There are canopies, shells, flowers, and foliage that fill in the spaces between the musical performers. Despite the many decorative flourishes, the design retains an overall feeling of lightness. The cravat may have been made for the marriage of the Duke of Burgundy to Marie-Adélaide of Savoy in 1697, or it simply could be a celebration of cultural achievements under King Louis XIV.
This object was featured in our Object of the Week series in a post titled Lace in Concert.
This object was
bequest of
Richard Cranch Greenleaf (American, 1887–1961).
It is credited Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma Greenleaf.
- Pair Of Stockings (France)
- silk.
- Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma....
- 1962-55-14-a,b
- Coat (France)
- silk embroidery on silk foundation, silk lining.
- Gift of Mrs. Edward C. Post.
- 1913-33-1
- Buckle (England)
- silver, gold, iron.
- Gift of Janet Mavec.
- 1984-66-2-a,b
Our curators have highlighted 8 objects that are related to this one. Here are three of them, selected at random:
- Waistcoat (France)
- silk.
- Gift of Monsieur Robert de Micheaux.
- 1956-155-1
- Collar (Italy)
- linen.
- Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma....
- 1962-50-28
- Drawing, Design for the Making of a Man's Needle Lace Collar
- pen and black ink on parchment paper.
- Museum purchase from Sarah Cooper-Hewitt and Au Panier Fleuri Funds.
- 1991-42-1-b
Its dimensions are
H x W: 28.5 x 41 cm (11 1/4 x 16 1/8 in.)
Cite this object as
Cravat End (France); linen; H x W: 28.5 x 41 cm (11 1/4 x 16 1/8 in.); Bequest of Richard Cranch Greenleaf in memory of his mother, Adeline Emma Greenleaf; 1962-50-18-b
This object was previously on display as a part of the exhibition Making Design.
