Collection of Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

Our curators have highlighted 5 objects that are related to Purse.

A vanity case in the form of a small sarcophagus combining Egyptian style imagery with a raised and curved bone lid, a flat bottom and an ornate encasement fabricated from enamel paint, gold, cabochon or smoothly polished stones and carved and polished emeralds and sapphires, faceted diamonds, platinum and onyx. The case could easily fit into the palm of one’s hand. A line drawing of a young person facing left dressed in a long sheath with triangular hands is carved in the bone lid. A jewelled image that resembles the Pharaoh Tutankhamun rests on the left side of the case wearing a striped headdress known as a neme. The neme is encrusted with cabochon sapphire stones that appear to be calibrated to fit in between thin gold lines. The royal insignia of the goddess Wadjet sits on the top of the King’s neme in the form of a cobra for protection embellished with faceted diamonds. The Pharaoh's face is carved from a large translucent emerald with blue sapphire irises embedded in his eyes. His chin wears a fake beard formed into an onyx cylinder. The Pharaoh's body is portrayed as a white leopard encrusted with faceted diamonds and onyx stones with oversized carved emerald paws showing strength. Yellow-orange enamel paints the negative space with blue, green and white papyrus flowers adorning the side edges. Above the Pharaoh’s head the trim is encrusted with three sets of rounded emeralds in between faceted diamonds while a row of diamonds borders the bottom edge. The front of the vanity case displays part of the bone lid bordered with rounded emeralds in between faceted diamonds and a centered diamond thumb clasp with an onyx fluted strip below. The same yellow-orange enamel decorates the front of the case’s body with several blue, green, and white papyrus flowers evenly spaced. Gold-beaded flower buds standing erect are placed in the alternating negative space of the papyrus flowers. The photograph shows the case on an angle displaying the top, front and left side view known as an isometric view with the left side closer to the viewer against a white ground showing a cast shadow.

Vanity Case, Egyptian Sarcophagus
bone, enamel, gold, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds, platinum, onyx.
Lent by Cartier Collection, Inv. VC 70 A25.
86.2016.2

There are 6 images of this object.

A bracelet combining Egyptian imagery in a symmetrical composition fabricated from faceted precious and smoothly polished semi-precious gemstones and gold also known as cabochon, set in platinum in a rectangular form with an open box clasp partially seen. The dominant central design shows two swans intertwined in a heart form encrusted in round diamonds and rows of mother-of-pearl representing feathers with beaks of onyx and a large round diamond atop, possibly representing the sun. An onyx scarab below traditionally representing renewal and rebirth in Egyptian symbolism spreads its decorative wings in a symmetrical circular design embellished with onyx for feather tips, two rows of turquoise, then sapphires meeting in the diamond encrusted center and appearing to be overlapped by the swans. Round diamonds surround the feathers with several thin diagonal dark lines and a curved partial circle emanating from the large diamond above the entwined swan’s heads. To the right and left are papyrus leaves formed like fans on an opposite diagonal orientation consisting of sapphires and gold stripes and sapphires on the leaf’s gently curved borders. Above, large areas of turquoise cabochons appear to be flowing in a diagonal orientation and are possibly reminiscent of the Nile River. Further to the left and right and at the bracelet’s ends are a symbol of an outline of an eye possibly representing a god enhanced with gems and a black pearl for the iris. A hook and flail are located below the eye crossed like an X consisting of sapphire and gold stripes traditionally representing a symbol for the Pharaoh of Egypt. The bracelet could comfortably fit into one’s hand, it would probably feel cold to the touch and the texture would be bumpy from the cabochon stones. The photograph captures the object against a light gray ground with a cast shadow.

Bracelet, Egyptian, ca. 1925
diamonds, turquoise, sapphires, mother-of-pearl, onyx, black pearls, smoky....
Private Collection.
41.2016.11

Front view of a scarab belt buckle against a white background features a traditional shaped oval dark blue scarab at its center flanked by two turquoise-hued faience wings. On the upper inner corners of the wings, three stepped rows with two round brilliant-cut diamonds flanking a single oblong baguette-cut diamond descend in size. Two cabochon sapphires on a diagonal, one at the bottom inside edge of each wing, the other at the outermost top edge complete the decoration. The wings and scarab have scored lines, describing the round beetle body, and the outstretched wing’s feathers. The scalloped edge of the metal mounting is visible around the bottom and topmost portion of the wings.

Scarab Belt Buckle
square-shaped diamonds, baguette-, brilliant-, round old- and single-cut....
Lent by Cartier Collection, Inv. CL 341 A26.
86.2016.3

There are 2 images and 1 video of this object.

A rectangular vanity case with a mother-of-pearl plaque on the front that is engraved with black Egyptian hieroglyphs and cartouches down each side and flanked by coral columns, with onyx and coral capitals and diamond bases. In the bottom half of the plaque is a rectangular panel of royal blue lapis lazuli, on top of which is a turquoise-blue Egypitan faience figurine, whose eyes are closed and who appears to be playing a double pipe. The figurine squats on a rectangular base encrusted with diamonds, which sits on a stepped onyx platform. Above the lapis lazuli panel is a large tulip-shaped decoration of coral, onyx and diamond. The top of the vanity case tapers in slightly and is made from coral with gold stripes, on top of which sits a platform of onyx with a smaller lapis lazuli panel above.The case is attached to an onyx ring by a double strand of leather held to it with decorative diamond, lapis lazuli, coral and onyx clasps of both circular and pyramidal shapes.

Vanity Case, Egyptian, 1924
gold, platinum, engraved mother-of-pearl plaques, egyptian blue faience....
Lent by Cartier Collection, Inv. VC 64 A24.
86.2016.8

Egyptian-themed bracelet. Almost entirely set in round diamonds, there are periodic rows of channel-set rectangular sapphires. The scene on the front of the bracelet, set in sapphires, rubies and emeralds, is of two Egyptian figures. One is kneeling and is giving or receiving something from a standing figure.

Egyptian Bracelet
diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and platinum.
Private Collection.
41.2016.1

There are 3 images of this object.